Guide – installing quiet fans on the Creality CR-6 SE


CR-6 guide

Make sure that you have the required items:

  • 1x 40x40x10 mm 24V hotend fan (the stock is 30x30x10 but we will use an adapter)
  • 1x 60x60x15 mm 12V PSU fan
  • 1x 60x60x15 mm 24V mainboard fan. Alternatively you can use a 12V fan with a 24V->12V step-down buck converter (shown below as well).
  • 6x UY connectors (or a soldering iron if you prefer that, usually produces better and longer-lasting results).
  • 2x M3x10 mm screws (for the hotend adapter)
  • 4x M3x14+ mm screws
  • 1x hotend 30->40mm fan adapter (PRINT THIS BEFORE REMOVING THE OLD FANS!)
  • A multimeter if you are using a step-down converter (for using a 12V fan on 24V power).
  • And some standard tools.

If you are installing the part cooling fan you will need in addition:

  • 1x 40x40x10 mm 24V part cooling fan
  • 2 UY connectors (or soldering)
  • 4x M3x10 mm screws (for the adapter)
  • 4x M3x14+ mm screws
  • 1x 40mm part cooling fan adapter (PRINT THIS BEFORE REMOVING THE OLD FANS!)

Our quiet fan kit can be bought here!

A note about JST-XH connectors

If you are using JST-XH connectors you need to make sure that the polarity of the new connector is the same as for the old!

JST-XH polarity guide

If needed, swap places of the red (+) and black (-) wires in the new fan JST-XH connector to match the old fan connector (use a small pencil/knife and push down the metal piece near the front of the connector, then pull the wire out). (Video guide)

1. Replacing the PSU fan

Needed: 60x60x15 mm 12V fan.

  1. Make sure that your printer is turned off and that the power cable is NOT plugged into the 3D-printer!
  2. Put your 3D-printer on its side and unscrew the back plate to reveal the PSU.
  3. Remove the four bigger black scews “on top” of the printer base (under the heated bed) to be able to remove the PSU.
  4. Remove the screws on the PSU cover and remove it.
  5. Remove the screws that attach the old fan to the cover you just removed.
  6. Cut the fan cables around 3-6 cm away from the board connector.
  7. Use two UY connectors to attach the new fan wires, see the image below.
  8. Alternatively, solder the fan wires.
  9. Screw the new fan to the PSU cover. Make sure that the label on the fan is facing AWAY from the PSU cover! The fan should blow air on to the PSU board.
  10. Screw back the PSU cover and the back plate on the 3D-printer.
  11. Done!

2. Replacing the mainboard fan

Needed: 60x60x15 mm 24V fan (or 12V and a step-down buck converter).

  1. Make sure that your printer is turned off and that the power cable is NOT plugged into the 3D-printer!
  2. Having the 3D-printer on its side, remove the screws on the backplate covering the mainboard. Note that there is an additional screw on top of the base, i.e. below the heated bed, that also needs to be unscrewed.
  3. As in the previous section, remove the old fan and the fan wire from the mainboard.
  4. Cut the wires around 3-6 cm from the mainboard connector.
  5. Attach the new fan to the cover with the two screws. Make sure that the label on the fan is facing away from the cover. You want the fan to blow air on top the mainboard!
  6. Option 1 (24V fan): Use two UY connectors to attach the new fan wires.
    Option 2 (24V fan): Solder the fan wires (seen below).
    Option 3 (12V fan with a buck converter): solder the wires with the board connector to the input side of the step-down converter (+ to IN+ and – to IN-) (see two images below).
  7. Only if using a 12V fan: Having soldered the input side, plug in the printer and carefully turn in on.
    1. Use a multimeter and measure the voltage across the output side on the step-down converter.
    2. If it does not measure 12V, use e.g. a knife and rotate the golden screw (clockwise to increase the voltage, counter-clockwise to decrease) until you measure 12V.
    3. Turn off the printer and unplug the power cable again!
    4. Solder the new fan to the output side of the converter (+ to OUT+ and – to OUT-).
    5. Use some insulation tape or heat shrinks to protect the converter.
  8. Put the back-cover with the new fan back on the 3D-printer and fix the four screws.
  9. Done!

3. Replacing the hotend fan

Needed: 40x40x10 mm 24V fan and the 40mm fan adapter (that you have 3D-printed).

  1. Make sure that your printer is turned off and that the power cable is NOT plugged into the 3D-printer!
  2. Remove the two screws holding the metal hotend protection in place.
  3. Unscrew the old fan and cut the fan wires close the the fan(!).
  4. Take the new fan and use two UY-connectors to connect the fan wires with the wires attached to the board connector. (Alternatively, solder the wires).
  5. Take the fan adapter and use two M3x8 mm screws to fix it to the cooling block.
  6. Use four M3x14 (or longer) screws and attach the new fan.
  7. Make sure that the wires and not in the way of the fan and screw the metal protection piece back on to the printer head.
  8. Done!

4. Replacing the part cooling fan

Needed: 40x40x10 mm 24V fan and the other 40mm fan adapter (that you have 3D-printed).

  1. Make sure that your printer is turned off and that the power cable is NOT plugged into the 3D-printer!
  2. Remove the two screws holding the metal hotend protection in place.
  3. Remove/cut the cables in between the fan and the board connector on the stock part cooling fan.
  4. Use two M3x10 mm screws to attach the 3D-printed “arm” to the 3D-printed fan adapter.

  5. Use four M3x14+ mm screws to attach the fan to the fan adapter
  6. Use two M3x10 mm screws to attach the “arm” to the printer head (the same screw holes the metal protection uses).
  7. Use two UY connectors (or soldering) to connect the new fan wires to the wires with the board connector.
  8. Done!